In praise of better coffee
Victoria baristas score among the best in the business
Leah Collins and Matthew Kruchak, Times Colonist
Published: Friday, August 17, 2007
www.canada.com/victoriatimescolonist
Derek Lucas has the traits of any successful professional athlete: He's focused, driven and determined. But his playing field is behind the coffee bar.
The owner of Buon Amici's Coffee at 110-645 Tyee Rd. is Western Canada's best barista. And he has the hardware to prove it.
Lucas was one of three capital region coffee wizards to claim the top spots at Wednesday's Western Regional Barista Competition in Vancouver, with three other Victoria baristas placing in the upper ranks. It shows that Vancouver might have the reputation, but in fact it's Victoria that's the true Canadian coffee mecca.
Atop his shop's cookie display case, Lucas's trophies from his first-place finish are proudly presented.
"I told everyone I was going to win, but I didn't expect it," he said, wearing a coffee-bean brown shirt with cream coloured pinstripes that match his tie.
The event pitted 12 baristas against each other to claim bragging rights and a trip to Toronto for the Canadian championship.
Each barista was given 15 minutes to prepare four servings each of espresso, cappuccino and a signature drink for a panel of judges.
Competitors are judged on taste, speed, design, creativity and showmanship.
"It's a blend of science and artistry," Lucas said.
For the Victoria contingent, though, the competition was as much about improving coffee culture in the city as it was about bringing home a title.
Logan Gray of Discovery Coffee, 2000 Douglas St., placed second in the competition.
"To make coffee better in Victoria was my goal," Gray said. "Coffee is like wine. It should be appreciated, not just consumed."
Both Gray and Lucas use the same phrase to describe Victoria's coffee community, "close-knit."
Baristas swap tips, café owners share sources. Habit Coffee and Culture (the café's Ken Gordon and Zachary Simon placed third and sixth respectively) hosts weekly cuppings on Tuesday afternoons at its 522 Pandora Ave. location where baristas are welcome to do their thing, and the public is welcome to sample their artistry.
The Friday before the competition, Habit hosted a trial run of the competition. Gray was there, along with baristas from 2% Jazz (staffers Brette Richard and Tiffany Malley placed fifth and seventh). Official judge Sam Jones of 2% Jazz, at 2621A Douglas St., was on hand to offer constructive criticism.
Jones said that spirit of collaboration comes from a shared motivation: To give Victoria credit as a coffee centre.
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THE COFFEE OF CHAMPIONS
Now's your chance to sample the creme de la coffee. At the Western Regional Barista Competition competitors were required to whip up a specialty drink of their own creation. The top scorers are still slinging them at Victoria cafés.
1. Derek Lucas, Buon Amici's Coffee: Pistachio dated koufli.
Poured on a base of finely chopped dates, this layered drink of espresso, melted koufli (pistachio and cardamom-flavoured Indian ice cream), and vanilla-bean-infused foam starts hot and, as Lucas says, "finishes like a cool dessert." $4-$5. Coming soon to Buon Amici's menu.